Malolo ICS Splitboard (with steel inside edge)

…. waterjet cut, Puderluder/Quiverkiller inserts and alternative hardware

This past winter I finished my second DIY splitboard which I want to share with people interested in doing the same. I learnt from the mistakes of my first attempt to insert steel inside edges and also refined my technique somewhat. There is still some room for improvement, but I’m really please with the outcome which is really clean!

This is what I did differently from my previous DIY splitboard and from the recommended Voille instructions:

These are the advantages of the approach I chose:

Firstly the cut was near perfect. With this as my starting point everything becomes a lot easier. All pre ICS/EST channel burton with the 3 hole binding pattern are really difficult to saw through, and the later ICS channel boards make this even more of a challendge. The waterjet leaves a really clean cut with minimal loss of width from the saw blade.

Inserting steel inside edges makes icy traverses so much easier. I know this from experience. Furthermore, it protects the exposed woodcore/ inner sidewalls from impact. Lastly I believe it makes your splitboard a little more stiff which is often a problem with DIY boards.

I don’t have anything against the Voille hardware. I think the new puck design is a great improvement. Markus’s puck design however allows you to use existing binding holes (although not really applicable with an ICS board). Depending how you choose to cut them, you can also have overlapping edges which allow for some additional torsional rigidity when configured for riding. At the time I was designing this board, Voille pucks weren’t available and Markus was able to get me his pucks in Europe really quickly. I thing that Markus’s hook design is superior to the Voille Chinese hooks. You need only compare the strength and durability of them. (I am yet to try the Karakoram clips which I think look great.)

I wasn’t too sure about the quiverkiller ski binding inserts. I first saw them on the TGR forum from which they were spawned and thought they’d make for a very clean DIY splitboard. With the load on snowboard bindings being considerably greater than that of skis, I have been concerned that they might not be adequate. Without conducting my own stress/failure tests, only practical field testing will tell in time. A few considerations that I weighted up were the following:

I found a test on and Italian site that said they could h0ld almost 4000 Newtons before failure. This was almost twice the standard binding screw (280kg vs 395kg). I think the M6 T-nut approach for all hardware is overkill. It leaves your base looking like Emmentaler cheese. This results in a lot of additional work and in the past I have had the P-tex that seals the t-nuts regularly dislodge either during riding or when pulling of skins. I have also seen splitboards break when in touring mode, at the point where 3 holes are drilled for the touring bracket. I just can’t see how the core retains it’s strength with 18, and sometime up to 26 holes drilled for t-nuts. I also decided to mount each sliderplate/puck with 4 holes using these inserts. That is twice as many as the new Voille pucks and my feeling is that I shouldn’t have any problems. As I mentioned, only time will tell. One other aspect worth mentioning, is that the inserts are for skis which generally have a thicker core than snowboards. This can present problems, particularly when you have a very tapered core profile and a wide stance. I managed to overcome this by grinding down all the inserts by about 1-2mm which was all that was required. The makers of the puderluder/quiverkiller have noted there willingness to consider making snowboard specific inserts if there is enough interest. If you’re interested, express it hear!

In short, this is how it was done:

  • Waterjet cut a Burton Malolo 158 ICS (by GU Cutting and Grinding Services LtdĀ in Stockport UK)
  • Using a Dremel Router attachement with a square router bit I routed out a channel for the inside edges.
  • Using a Dremel with a cutting bit and some fine motor coordination I cut a channel between the P-tex base and the woodcore of approximately 1-2mm.
  • I then filled the channel with slow cure epoxy.
  • After sanding the steel edges and cleaning them with acetone, I taped and clamped them into the profiled grove that I had routed out in 1 and 2 above.
  • After allowing 24 hours to dry I sanded the inside edge and sidewall and trimmed away excess epoxy.
  • I then sealed the inside edges with 3 coats of urethane varnish.
  • I then taped the board together tightly and mounted the wildschnee hooks after using a centre punch to make the drill holes.
  • As per the Voille instructions I mounted the tip and tale hooks.
  • I centre punched all the holes for mounting the touring bracket, heal riser and pucks before following the instructions for the puderluder/quiverkiller inserts which I had previously ground down and cleaned in acetone.
  • I brushed up on my geometry to get the position of the sliderplates/puck right and then taped them securely to my board. I drilled pilot holes though the pucks and into my board before removing the pucks and continuing to drill the inserts as described above.
  • After removing the pucks with the pilot holes drilled I redrilled them to fit the M5 insert screws and used a countersunk bit to clean them up.
  • After allowing the inserts to set in their epoxy I mounted all hardware, marked the cuts for the slider plates, removed the slider plates and used a coping saw and dremel to cut and finish of the separate halves of the two sliderplates.

Sounds simple doesn’t it?

This what I would do differently.

I would use a router table or a quality router as the dremel router attachment is a joke. It has so much laxity and it failed to give the finish I was looking for. Ideally I would like a custom router bit that is the same profile as the cross section of the steel edges I used.

Also, I would clamp the board to a solid wooden member before routing out the edge channel as the cambered core profile results in a varied depth of router cut. Ensuring that this is exactly the same on both inside edges is a challenge that I am still working on.

I might consider filling in the ICS channel before cutting with the waterjet. I have not done this as a weight consideration, but I am concerned that this leaves a few exposed sharp aluminum edges that might tear clothing/gloves during transitions. I’ve tried to dull these edges with a dremel.

I can’t think of too many other things I would do differently. On the whole I am really pleased with the result. In future I would like to try other boards, perhaps try the Karakoram interface, and maybe even put in a mellow magnatraction cut a’la the Jones split decision (This won’t really be possible with a Burton board with ICS). The waterjet will result in a perfect fit, but some delicate prebending of the steel edges is probably required and routing the channel for the edges will be a little trickier.

There a few people that I’d like to thank for their advice, assistance or supplies:

15 thoughts on “Malolo ICS Splitboard (with steel inside edge)

  1. Hi, I know this is a pretty old post by now, but it still seems to be one of the better ones out there. I was just wondering how the quiver killers held out in the long run for you? thanks !

    • Hi Chris.
      I’ve had no problems. That being said, it’s not the board I spend a whole lot of time on. A little short for longer trips with a heavy pack, more a side country split. One thing worth mentioning is the depth that I sunk the quiverkiller – in some areas I got pretty close to the base and over time, the pressure on them has cause slight bumps. I guess I could have ground them down a little more and I can skim the base, but there is not a lot of clearance. It’s not the kind of board I ride on icy groomers, so I can’t say I’ve noticed it when riding.
      Shout if you have any more questions.

    • Hi thanks for getting back so quickly, The notification got sent to my spam folder, so I’m sorry to say I wasnt as fast with this reply! An interseting response, the board I’m splitting is fitting a similar place in my quiver: short side country optimal condition pow missions. But becuase I’ll likley be riding on piste to get to backcountry gates etc I think I will be putting a fair bit of load through the deck. But it seems your giving it the thumbs up… Would you do it for a board that would be more of a workhorse? Also I’m a little concerned about the poplar core of my deck being a little soft, do you think thats a warrented concern of am I just being a splitboard hypochondriac?

      Thanks again!

  2. Hi John,

    Just curious how your getting on with the Quiver Killers and if you used them for the Ying Yank Hooks? Also did you Tap the holes, I read on that screwing the inserts straight in to the core was the best way to go.

    Have two boards split (not the cleanest splits but for a first go I’m happy).

    Any advice on using quiver killers would be great going to order some from Johns as only just up the road from me.


    • Hi Steve,

      Two years later, and no issues, but it’s not my main splitboard, more of a side country split. I did tap the holes, but it was still a really tight fit. I didn’t use the quiver killers on the ying yang hooks. The board is quite thin where I fitted the hooks and the quiver killers are too deep to use there. I was comfortable drilling all the way through and using standard countersunk screws which sit flush with the base. If it works for factory production boards then I figure its fine with my boards. I’ll try and post a few updated pictures soon… It still looks really clean!

      drop me your email address, happy to give some further advice if you have any issues..

  3. Loved the split. Never seen an ICS split before.
    Can you put up a picture with the pucks as well?
    Markus has good ideas.

  4. John
    Thanks!! It’s a great work! And you gave us a good lesson.
    I’m in a doubt. I have a 160 2009 Custom X, and I don’t know if cut it and do the Voile Split Kit – DIY or buy a splitboard.
    Is it really necessary to add the steel edges?


  5. Thanks John,
    Got my board back from jet cutting. sweet clean.
    I will take your advise on the edges. I’ve seen some articles that explain this well.
    If I understand your edge install method you route two channels to install the inside edge.

    I have old pair of skis that I picked up on the curb and I’ll pry the edges from these skis. I hope I will also learn about how it installed from it. going getto DIY here.

    • Hi Eliad,

      Good work. The jet cutting is the way to go!
      With the edges, it is probably much easier to work with new/clean edge: they’re pretty cheap at I got some a year or two back for $6.50. I think you will get a much better bond with new, freshly sandblasted edges (It’s a real hack if you rip out an edge) and also you ski edges are unlikely to be straight. It is much easier to bend a straight edge, which is what you’ll need for your insides. I reckon it will be quite tricky straightening out already bent edges.

      You’re right, I route out two edges, then used a dremel to slighlt lift to base material, filled with epoxy and jammed the edged then. I then taped them in nice and tight/flush and clamped them in place over night. Ended up really nice and clean. I’ll see if I can find a picture or draw a few and send them to you. Best of luck and have a super season!


  6. Thank you for the article. It is insightful and I am considering using the quiverkiller inserts as an alternative to the Voile t-nuts.
    I’m wondering if you can share the “year after” experience with that.

    I also would like to install the inside edges you describe but I have to understand this process a little more before doing it. I figured this is something I can add on to the setup at later stage.


    • Eliad,

      Thanks for the comment.

      Regarding “Year After” experience, I really only have two observations: No problem with stregth, BUT, I may have screwed one or two of them in a little tight, so the after some time, there were slightly raised bumps on the base. Nothing a base grind didn’t sort out, but did become noticeable.

      Secondly, regarding putting in the inside edges later: I would advise against it. Either do it before, or not at all. You will have to be milimeter perfect if you put them in afterwards. If you add a milimeter to each edge, your chinese hooks wont fit properly, if you try and then file away the excess, you’ll struggle to do it consistently along the length of the edge. I would suggest that you need to mate the two parts of your board perfectly before you drill holes for your chinese hooks. If you do it afterwards, it is highly unlikely that they’ll be perfectly flush.

      Adding the steel edges adds weight. It also makes the inside edge more durable, and aids on ice traverses. It’s certainly no prerequisite, but I will do it with all my conversions.

  7. Great play-by-play of your DIY, finish product looks great! I am putting together a plan to build my first split and would like to ask you a few questions regarding your instructions. Up for a little Q and A?

    • Chris, sorry for taking so long to get back to you. More than happy to answer some of your questions if it isn’t too late. I’ll drop you a mail directly.

  8. Pingback: A few updated pics of the waterjet cut DIY splitboard - Along the way | Along the way

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